95 ranger 1 piece driveshaft swap meet

2WD One-Piece Drive Shaft Swap? - The Ranger Station Forums

Find a quality Ford Ranger Drive Shaft, Rear and other used Truck parts from the Drive Shaft, Rear, 32 1/2 WELD TO WELD Super Cab (" WB), 4x4, MT, 0. yea it will be long enough i didn't do anything to my '99 1 piece driveshaft you also extend the length that the driveshaft has to go to reach the rear axle. Ranger & B-Series - 95 Ranger: Driveshaft Vibration - I have 95 to replace the entire driveshaft with an one piece aluminium shaft off of a.

Complete removal is not recommended it is a structural frame component. The gas tank skidplate does not contact the driveshaft on level ground, but when the rear suspension flexes a lot, it will hit towards the rear of the skidplate and make an awful screeching sound that will make anything that isn't deaf wish it was.

Remove the skid plate to do this trimming. Throwing sparks around your gas tank isn't a great idea, and you don't want to cut too deep and nick the tank either.

95 Ranger: Driveshaft Vibration - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

There are four bolts holding the skid plate on that will probably be tight and a pain to get out, but well worth not sitting under the truck with a grinder and gas tank above your face.

Bolt the skidplate back into place and then install your new driveshaft with the slip-joint towards the transfer case. Torque the driveshaft-to-flange bolts to 85 ft-lbs. There isn't a great demand for the two-piece shafts, so I'm going to see if I can extend the long section of the old shaft for use as a trail spare.

Might work, might not. This swap should be possible on these also. I cannot however comment on 2WD clearance issues as I have not researched them. I've heard slight floorboard modification may be needed. If you own a Supercab model, this swap can still be done, but the rear driveshaft flange on the axle will be smaller. You will need to swap the larger rear U-joint attachment with 3" bolt spacing with another forward one that has a 2.

It also was brought up just as this article was being finished that later Supercab 4x4s fitted with aluminum shafts have a larger T-case flange same as the larger rear flange with 3" bolt spacing. These will require either swapping the forward U-joint piece or swapping the t-case flange. Revisited June 29, I just recently purchased an 03 aluminum driveshaft and just wanted to pass some info on to make it work. Also, I have had to trim the gas tank skid plate like mentioned but after a little bit of driving it still touched the rear skidplate bracket.

I also had to barely trim the front bracket too. I'm swapping in a late model aluminum 1-piece driveshaft into my supercab Ranger. The article gives info for a steel one. I found out as mentioned that the aluminum one uses a larger flange on the transfer case. Since the flange wasn't available from the truck I got the driveshaft from I needed a conversion u-joint Spicer Part Number x. This is basically a u-joint on one side and u-joint on the other.

IF you "need" a conversion joint you have the wrong flange. The "eared" half of the companion flange comes in two sizes. One for the 4-inch diameter T-case flange, and another for the 5-inch flange. My personal "issue" with "conversion" aka "Jump size" U-joints is that you are using a non standard parts that you must keep track of because U-joints are ultimately a "wear item".

If you simply get the correct flange "adapter" then you get to keep track of the fact that you now need a U-joint for a up ranger MUCH easier to remember. Lower the carrier bearing. By dropping the carrier bearing, you can help restore the proper angle of the drive line. However, it is impossible to completely remove the vibration because the front and back of the 2-piece drive shaft will never be in phase with each other. Replace the 2-piece drive shaft with a single piece.

You have two options within this option: It may seem like 1 would be easier, but swapping out the entire drive shaft is no more work. I have done both with my truck and would highly recommend skipping the hassle you will face trying to fine tune the carrier bearing height and go straight for the drive shaft swap.

The easiest way is to match up the specifications of your truck with the donor truck. These criteria will need to be fulfilled in order to get a good match: Automatic transmission or manual? If your truck is a 4x4, it will not matter what type of transmission the donor truck has because the driveshaft attaches to the transfer case.

You will need to swap the rear u-joint section with one from the front of the shaft. If you get a drive shaft from a 4x4 with the aluminum drive shaft, it will have a larger transfer case flange and you will either need to swap in a smaller u-joint unit from the rear of the shaft the exact opposite of what you need to do in the note or swap the flange on the transfer case.

You may ask where you can find a suitable drive shaft for the swap. Your best bet is a junkyard. You may also have luck searching online used car part sites e-junkyardsonline auction sites, or classified sections of online Ranger forums there are several good ones. I purchased mine off a fellow member of a Ranger forum at a decent price.

One Piece Driveshaft for an Extended Cab - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

There are two types of drive shafts available: I first thought all the shafts from 4x4s were steel and all from 4x2s were aluminum, but that is not entirely true, some of the newer 4x4s have aluminum shafts and I have heard of a few rare instances of 4x2s with steel shafts.

It really boils down to availability and personal preference. The only tool you will need to swap the drive shafts is a 12mm point socket and ratchet. Unfortunately, that is not all that needs to be done. Remember that carrier bearing on your old drive shaft? It is attached to a frame cross member. That cross member must be removed too, and that is no easy task.

Before You Remove the Drive Shaft You will want to set the parking brake and block the wheels before removing the drive shaft. Having the transmission in Park will do nothing once the drive shaft is removed since the transmission will no longer be attached to the wheels. The cross member is held onto the frame with two large rivets on either end.

In addition to the rivets, each end of the cross member has a tab that sticks through a small slot in the side of the frame. Here you see a cross section of the frame where the cross member is riveted on. The yellow piece is the frame rail, the green section is the cross member, and the red part is a rivet. The green arrow points to the cross member tab that sticks through a slot cut in the frame.

finally......getting the solid piece driveshaft

The red arrow points out the head of the rivet. Start by grinding the rivet head off. Hold the grinder so that the sparks fly away from the vehicle since the gas tank is nearby.

If you need to, improvise a spark shield out of cardboard or some other suitable material to place between where you are grinding and the gas tank. When the rivet head has been completely ground off you need to take your metal punch, a stout metal bar, or some other suitable tool and use a heavy hammer to punch the rivet up and out of the hole.

Repeat for the second rivet on the side you are working on, then move to the other side of the cross member and remove those two rivets.

On 4x4 models, you will also need to remove the gas tank skid plate. With the rivets removed, you will need to remove the tabs from the ends of the cross member. I used the grinder to remove as much of the metal as I could from end of the tab protruding through the frame, then used a chisel and hammer and pounded the rest of the tab back, bending it and getting it free from the slot in the frame rail. Alternatively, you could cut the cross member in two and then slide each end out.

When the cross member is free it should just be resting on the inside of the frame. Our attention now moves to the carrier bearing. It is mounted onto the cross member by two bolts. Position a jack stand under the carrier bearing because once we remove the cross member, the bearing will not be supported.